***DISCLAIMER***
This blog post is not a guide and should not be used to plan a hiking trip or assess the challenges of a park or trail system. If you are interested in visiting, hiking, or backpacking/camping in the Grand Canyon, please visit the Grand Canyon’s official website and practice leave no trace and responsible stewardship on your visit. If you love the photos here and would like to give back to this park, please visit the Grand Canyon Conservancy’s website to contribute with an online donation. You can also give back by practicing responsible recreation on public lands. In the event this post inspires you to hike more or to visit any park, I ask that you respect the land and it’s rules and policies, and leave it better than you found it. Alright, here’s the story!
What’s even down there, anyways? Is there anything at all?
Maybe you have peered over the railing from the comfort of the paved rim trail at Grand Canyon National Park, and pondered what, if anything, could possibly make use of the seemingly endless swirl plateaus and crevices that seem to go on indefinitely. The reality is that an incredibly biodiverse land lays below your feet, and is home to countless wild flora and fauna, including ancient cottonwood trees, lush and verdant flora of many kinds, ringtail cats, bighorn sheep, mule deer, and mountain lions. With this in mind, one can deduce that if these beings can traverse and make use of the canyon, perhaps we humans have too. Prior to white folks arriving at the canyon’s rim, passages only known to indigenous communities led from the rims to the river. There have been for at least 800 years, perhaps longer, humans that have for a variety of reasons made their way to the river below. Ancient pueblo dwellings are still visible from the river. For the eleven tribes who are spiritually, historically, and contemporarily connected to the canyon, this is a place of astounding importance. I hope that you, if you visit, will walk reverently with this in mind.
The Grand Canyon in modern times, dons an intricate and challenging web of trails. I had for a while now desired to traverse its width from south to north, and from north to south, using the trails in the park I knew would take me to and from the tops of each iconic rim. In the outdoors community, many are familiar with what a R2R2R is. For those that dont know, a Rim to Rim to Rim is an almost 50 mile trek with roughly 11,000 feet in elevation gains. You can trail run it (usually done in one or two challenging days), day hike it (usually done in two challenging days), or backpack it over a given amount of time. No matter which poison you pick, it’s both a challenging and rewarding trek that is best done by those with experience. I chose to backpack, since I wanted the challenge of the extra weight, and also wanted to camp within the canyon. I applied via a lottery 4 months in advance via fax, and “won” 3 nights of camping in the canyon. I packed my Zpacks pack, and drove from Tennessee to Arizona. For this journal entry, I’ll be sharing images from my Fuji TX-1, shot on Kodak film, and carried on my travels with the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Camera Pod (large). I will supplement the story with a few iPhone photos and videos for some additional context. Enjoy!
Night before!
Alec and I made it to the South Rim the afternoon before my big trek. After settling into his lodge room, we went out for a bite and beer. I fueled up and enjoyed my 2nd to last real meal before I succumbed to my freeze dried space meals. Definitely took this before my trek…I and my clothes are waaayyy too clean for this to have been taken after! hehe.
Morning of!
Saying goodbye to Alec before I leave for 4 days. Into the canyon I go a’solo, while Alec stays behind to work and do his own thing, day hike and practice his bass during the day, all that good stuff. But yall came here for real photographs, not iPhone snaps…so let’s get on with the goods shall we?
Descending the South Rim.
I left the South Kaibab trailhead in late morning, kissed Alec goodbye, and sauntered past a garden variety of tourists and NPS mule trains. South Kaibab is a favorite trail of mine, and had hiked part of it before in 2020. I practiced my patience and kindness as I descended down the crowded first part of South Kaibab.
South Kaibab Trailhead | Know your experience level and do research on a trail before hiking or backpacking it. South Kaibab is very steep and exposed. It is a very well groomed trail but should be hiked responsibly. Just remember, it’s easier going down these trails than up. Do not try to take on more than you’re able to. | Nov. 2022
Beginning the journey to the river, just below the South Rim. | Nov 2022
Ribbon of trail, heading river bound | Nov 2022
NPS Mule Train riding back up to the South Rim from Phantom Ranch, on the river. If you encounter a mule train, always move off trail and allow them to pass.
Finally, Cedar Ridge came into view. I knew the trail would soon become a quieter place, or at least I hoped. I took a moment to take in the scenery and a quick snack break, took a self portrait, and continued towards the Colorado river.
Self Timer Portrait on the Fuji Tx1 | November 2022 | The Hyperlite Mountain gear camera pod (the white gear case on my chest) made a huge difference in my productivity photographing during my trek. I have the larger of the two current models. I can’t recommend it enough!
Trail leading river bound, going further into the canyon | Nov 2022
Yucca plants | November 2022
The trail started to quiet. Day tourists had mostly began the trek back up, offering the backpackers, runners, and some of the more adventurous day hikers the solitude we were seeking. The further I walked, the lusher the canyon became. The quieter and more wild it began to feel.
Moving down trail | November 2022
Trail Switchbacks with backpackers descending the trail | November 2022
Rain on the horizon hiking to the Colorado River | November 2022
First glimpse of the Colorado River.
One of my first clear views of the River. To see the Colorado carving it’s way through the canyon in real time is an amazing thing. | Nov. 2022
Finally, I started to see the mighty Colorado River through the canyon’s walls. I knew my campsite for the night would be near the river, and continued my way down. On the North Rim lied a rain or snow/sleet storm, and I watched it move gently over and around the wall and cliffs. The temps dropped slightly and wind picked up. I felt a drop or two of rain on my head.
Rain in the Grand Canyon
With my rainjacket and rainpants in the back of my pack and easy to reach, I picked up my pace and hoped to not have to stop to get them out for an impending shower. Luckily, I pressed on to camp without needing either. To have not have had them in the event of a real rain or sleet storm however, could have been uncomfortable at best and life threatening at worse in the mid November weather. I continued towards the clouds and rain ahead, balancing my want to take photographs with wrapping up the day’s walk before any sort of system hit. The Colorado continued to make grand appearances, and grew closer and closer. Finally, the historic Black Bridge came into view.
The Colorado River. If you look closely, you’ll see the tunnel leading to the Black Bridge, as well as a few hikers. | Nov 2022
A sign indicating directions to different areas or trails | Nov 2022
Crossing the Colorado River on the Black Bridge | Nov 2022
I crossed the Colorado on the historic 95 year old Black Bridge. It’s at around this time I started to very much consider the immense engineering and work that went into the trails here. Because this bridge’s materials were brought to the river via mules and men. With this perspective, I walk on to Phantom Ranch and pitched my tent at the campsites. With the short daylight hours, it wasn’t long before night fell.
Morning moon over the cliffs at my first campsite | Nov 2022
I woke up to a chilly morning, and did my camp chores before sitting down to a cup of instant cafe bustello. After breaking camp, I enjoyed my coffee and sat in stillness before I carried onward. With a short day ahead, I enjoyed my morning coffee and finally began my trek Northbound.
Sign indicating directions for the North and South Rims | Nov 2022
Deep inside the Grand Canyon, and Bright Angel Creek | Nov 2022
Sign for the North Kaibab Trail
The depths of the canyon are beautiful hues of greens, blues, silvers, atop sandy yellows and ochres. Plant life grows thick and healthfully, and especially so around the water ways.
From a cool and narrow canyon to a wide and hot desert.
Eventually the sheltered canyon walls that follow Bright Angel Creek opened and gave way to a hot and sunny desertscape. Even in November where nights are below freezing and sometimes bitter cold, this hot and sunny section of trail was a sobering reminder of how much of an oven the canyon can become in the warmer months.
It was an easy 7 miles of hiking to my next campsite, so I wanted to trek to an especially beautiful waterfall in the canyon that I had heard of. As fate would have it, the bridge and trail was washed out that led to the falls, so I had to embark on some common sense “off trail” navigation. With my park map, patience, and the use of social trails, I forded the icy cold Bright Angel Creek and found myself deep in a lush, wet canyon. I heard the rush of the falls ahead, and endeavored to follow the sound. I did a few scrambles up and over boulders, and through marshy grass. Ravens watched me mischievously. Eventually the falls came into view, and I knew I must get closer to really get a sense of it. Eventually I managed to work my way through more boulders, water, and water covered grasses to the falls base. I finally arrived at a beautiful waterfall. I felt like I had stumbled upon a secret, even though so many make the same journey to see it.
After a time of enjoying the falls and taking a rest, I decided it was time to head back to the trail and get over to camp. Getting to the waterfall was a bit of a side quest into itself, and I’m glad I ventured to it.
Tent with a view.
I got to camp and got set up and ready for bed. Mule deer grazed near my tent, their big ears moving with the slightest sounds. Another cold night emerged, and I eventually fell asleep in my warm winter bag.
The following morning was a big one - tagging the north rim. I left my tent where it was and only took with me the basics. Today was just a day hike. I also knew there would be ice and snow, so I had my Katoohla Microspikes on hand, as well as a buff, gloves, beanie, layers, etc. Off I went to ascend the north rim the following morning.
Looking up at the North Rim | Nov. 2022
A few miles into the trek I was greeted by Roaring Springs, the mighty waterfall that is the source of drinking water inside the canyon. After a moment of admiring the beautiful waterfall I kept onward, as I had a little over 4,000 feet to ascend for the day.
L: Roaring Springs, R: North Kaibab Trail | Nov. 2022
Gazing up at the north rim…almost there! | Nov. 2022
At this point I had run out of higher speed films, so unfortunately I didnt shoot near as much around the North Rim. But I can assure you, it was especially beautiful. 7 or 8 miles of near-constant inclines, with the final mile being complete ice, I made it. Draped in a boreal forest and a blanket of snow, the North Rim was quiet. It was the most peaceful moment I had during my trek. I sat by the bathrooms and ate another snack, Facetimed Alec since I picked up reception at 8,000ft, and despite the freezing temps, enjoyed the solitude of the elusive north rim. It is a different world there. I also was able to see Humphrey’s Peak from the North Rim! At 12,000 feet, the mountain towers over the landscape. I had never seen the canyon like I had in that moment. As much as I wanted to linger, I pressed on and back down the canyon. The North Rim was tagged.
View from just below the remote North Rim | Nov 2022
Hiking back down from the North Rim and enjoying the warm colors of a chilly fall day. | Nov. 2022
Heading back down from the North Rim. Look closely, and on the right of the frame you’ll see a ribbon of trail that I had walked from | Nov. 2022
I night hiked back to camp that night, and fell asleep quickly in my tent. The next day would be big - almost 20 miles and with around 5k in gains to reach the South Rim, where Alec was staying. But with the previous days of a gentle warm up had me ready to complete my final day.
iPhone snap during the night hike back to my campsite.
I was up with the sun and on trail by 7:30AM. Much of my film had been shot already, so I was just trying to enjoy the trek and focus on a good pace. By brunch time I made it to Phantom Ranch and ate a wild amount of bagels, cream cheese, chips, and of course - their world famous lemonade! I sat and talked with other hikers for a while, and after the pit stop and refuel, continued up and up.
My very sad hikertrash lunch at Phantom Ranch. The lemonade lived up to it’s legendary status however!
The junction for Bright Angel Trail | Nov 2022
Now it was time to take Bright Angel Trail to finish the journey. I left Kaibab and connected to BA, and hiked on over the Silver Bridge. I was feeling it, I’ll be honest. The inclines were relentless. My consolation prize was how well engineered the trails were (I felt very spoiled by this) and the thought of a substantial beer and veggie burger on the South Rim. On I went. Around Havasupai Gardens, I met another hiker I quickly became friends with, and we decided to hike back up together. It felt so good to have the company on the trek back up. As sun set, we let the moonlight guide, and took times to appreciate the humanity around us. Looking up, looking down. Teeny, tiny headlamps could be seen here and there. The folks hiking at night. Not many of us, but a small and very comforting amount. A few miles from the top was all that was left now.
iPhone snap of trail signs. Lit with the red setting on my headlamp. Pro tip: Use the red light on a headlamp when passing other hikers or setting up a camp in a busy area, as it’s less abrasive to others’ eyesight.
iPhone snap indicating that this route could be a rad way to die.
And finally, I made it back to the South Rim. 50 miles, 4 lovely days, and 3 restful nights inside the canyon. Alec made me a sign and greeted me when I finished! A R2R2R can be day hiked, trail ran, or backpacked, and I chose the latter. Great bucketlist solo adventure I’ll likely take on again. Hope you enjoyed the photos and again I’m terribly sorry I ran out of higher ISO film and had to sub out some stuff for these iphone snaps. Learned a lot on my new-to-me TX-1 and am grateful it accompanied me on this journey. My next long walk with my Fuji TX-1 is 175 miles by foot through rural Scotland. Thanks for reading and I hope you dug the (real/non iPhone) photos!
Fin! Not pictured is my geriatric gait after hauling my house on my back for several days, and temps in the low 20s. I ate about a million veggie burgers and beer after this one.