I’ve really fallen in love with hiking and camping in the last few years, but a few weeks ago I embarked on my first ever solo camping and hiking trip. I chose my beloved Great Smoky Mountains as homebase. Over 2.5 days I hiked 21 miles and ascended over 6,000 feet. I saw Black Bear, Whitetail Deer, and Eastern Wild Turkey. I saw countless species of plantlife. I watched bees buzz from Crimson Bee Balm plants and Dark Eyed Juncos fly from branch to branch of high altitude Rhododendron, some of which still bore crowns of white flowers. It was a short trip to dip my toes into more solo adventuring. And while my Contax N1 35mm was easily the heaviest part of my pack, I still brought my camera. Below are three photographs from the roll I shot during my solo trip. I hope you enjoy the images, and please: If you end up getting inspired to hike or see these places, please practice conscientious hiking/camping, follow Leave No Trace principles, follow all park rules, and do not approach or get too close to wild animals.
Cherokee people called this mountain Duniskwalgunyi, or “Forked Antler”. This ancient double capstone knobbed mountain is certainly unique in the smokies, given it’s bare rock and shape. Chimney Tops was the first mountain formation that I saw in the park when I first visited in 2015. Sadly, a year after my first visit, two negligent teenagers would start an illegal fire near this beautiful mountain. This fire developed into a devastating fire complex that would burn 17,900 acres, destroy 2,460 buildings, cost $2 Billion in damages, and take the lives of 14 people.
5 years later I would hike thousands of feet up to get a birds eye view of the mountain, still very much in recovery from those damaging and consequential acts. Due to the fire, you can no longer scramble the spine of the mountain. Yes, some people don’t care and do it anyways. PLEASE do not ignore the trail closure and climb the spine. The environment needs time to heal. When you abstain from breaking the rules here, you are helping this icon of the Smokies recover. If you are looking for epic views of the Smokies that involve challenging hikes, consider Charlies Bunion and/or Mount LeConte. Please visit responsibly.
William | Appalachian Trail at the Sweat Heifer Creek Junction | July 2021 | 74 year old retired West Tennessee tomato farmer, husband, father, veteran, and backpacker.
There can be a tragic misconception by those who don’t hike often that perhaps bad folks looking for trouble go into the woods. This anti-statistical, fear-driven thinking has hobbled too many would-be hikers and nature lovers. I’m one of those people, and I’ve fought like hell to break the fears. On the contrary of such thinking, you’ll no doubt find more angels on the trails. The higher you hike, the more frequent they make appearances, if you’re so lucky to meet one.
I was finishing one hellish and sweaty solo hike up the Sweat Heifer Trail in the Smokies this summer. This trail dead ends into the famous Appalachian Trail. After thousands of feet of ascent through dense hardwood forests that slowly transformed into the iconic spruce-fir and northern hardwood landscapes, I rounded the slightly overgrown side trail to see 74 year old William taking a break under a tree. I’m sure with sweat pouring out of every pore, I asked “Have you ever taken this one?”. He cooly replied in a southern accent, “Yes ma’am, many times. I’ve hiked about every trail in this park. Been comin’ here since 1958.”
Needing a break and quite frankly craving the better side of humanity, I took this as an opportunity to catch my breath and talk to a fellow hiker. “Where do you get all that fancy hikin’ gear?”, he asked. I laughed and indulged a little gear talk. “Well, thanks for not making fun of my old soda bottle.”, he chuckled. “All I ever done is filter water with this bandana into this coke bottle and it works just fine for me!” This is what I call country folk stuff.
”This park has sure changed a lot. A lot more people here now than what there used to be. I used to just come out here and camp and hike. I didn’t even know at first you needed a permit! Many years ago I was sleeping in a back country shelter, and a ranger woke me up. He said "‘sir, do you have a permit?’, I said ‘no, I was just sleeping and you woke me up!’. Apparently my snoring had startled the ranger’s horse. Well I get permits now. You know, I hike to help with my PTSD after the (Vietnam) war. I didnt even know i had it. When I got home, I just started farming and working and raising a family. I was too busy to notice. But when I retired, I had too much time to think about what I experienced. Hiking saved me.”
The flecks of wisdom, humor, whimsey, and the occasional sobering moments went on like this for well over an hour. “May I make your portrait?”, I asked William. “Well, you can’t make a silk purse out of a sows ear, but I suppose you can try.” he said while laughing. He gave me his info so I could eventually send him the photo. “Well I better get going William, I have a lot of miles ahead.” I said. “You know, most of the time the folks you meet, you’ll never see them out here again. It was so wonderful talking with you.”, he said. “I know, William. It’s been a pleasure talking with you too. You’ve been the highlight of my day!” I responded. “Well, here’s my wife’s number. Please send her this photo if it turns out. Been married a long time, and never a cross word. Life is too short to quarrel. She’s my best friend.”
With a few additional parting words of kindness, I left William under his Leichen-covered evergreen while I made my way to Charlies Bunion. I call folks like William angels of the trail.
Duniskwalgunyi, or Chimney Tops Mountain, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, July 2021
Erika and Shelby | Newfound Gap | July 2021
I made it to Charlies Bunion in the late afternoon, knowing I had made an embarrassing late start this day. I knew at this point I may be walking back in the dark with a headlamp for the last mile or so if I were to complete the particular loop of trails I had planned on. Or, I could take a different and shorter trail I knew of and hopefully get a ride back to my car should I meet some trustworthy fellow hiker. When I got to the bunion, I saw Erika and Shelby taking photos. They offered to take mine on the bunion, and after that we started talking. I decided to ask if I could hitchhike back with them. I am forever grateful they said yes.
We hiked the Appalachian Trail back to Newfound Gap and had such a blast. We were instant friends and hesitated none to dive into deep conversations while we powered ourselves back to the trailhead. As a thank you, I offered to get a snapshot of the duo. Without much thought I laughed and said “I’m sorry I hope it doesn’t feel like I’m taking engagement photos or something!” I felt a little silly the moment I said it, especially as a person never wanting to make a couple I dont know feel awkward. But it turns out I may have been good on my gut instincts. They smiled and informed me that while they hadn’t at the time publicly said anything, they had just got engaged on the peak of Mt LeConte the day before. I’m glad I got this snapshot of them. We hopped into the car and they offered me an ice cold seltzer water and drove me down mountain to my car, still parked at the Kephart Prong trailhead. We parted ways and assured one another of meeting up for hikes or drinks in the future, and off we went.
These are angels of the trails, and if you’re so lucky, you may meet them. Moments like these make up for the heaviness of a professional camera.